A former Chez Panisse chef and retired owner of the renowned San Francisco restaurant Square One, Joyce Goldstein has been "putting up preserves" since the 1960s, committed to "the beautiful tension between sweetness and acidity" and distinctive flavors. In Jam Session: A Fruit-Preserving Handbook, Goldstein presents more than 100 fruit recipes. Arranged by seasons, from strawberry jam to pumpkin butter, this beautifully photographed cookbook is both inspiring and pragmatic.
Introductory sections feel like a brief tutorial from a friend. On sugar: "First let us agree that preserves are not diet food." In "Preserving Techniques and Pointers," tips include tests for "doneness" that encourage you to "use your eyes and common sense," followed by practical how-tos.
Seasoned preservers could go straight to the recipes, skipping the fruit histories and varieties, and Goldstein's anecdotes. But even those who may never buy a flat of peaches or sterilize a jar will appreciate Jam Session's beautiful and affectionate homage to fruit. --Cheryl Krocker McKeon, manager, Book Passage, San Francisco