Nina Mukerjee Furstenau's The Pocket Rhubarb Cookbook is a delectable tribute to the bright, tart vegetable whose uses are far more varied than popular crisps and pies. Furstenau (Biting Through the Skin; Green Chili and Other Impostors) takes readers on a tour of rhubarb's many variations, providing a plethora of sweet and savory recipes along with tips for growing, preparing, and preserving the plant.
Furstenau, a Midwesterner with roots in India, begins with a brief history of rhubarb, a common ingredient from church potlucks to ancient remedies. She provides an overview of varieties, plus advice for tending and harvesting. But the recipes are the book's zingy heart. Beginning (as one should) with pies and cobblers, Furstenau expands her repertoire to breakfast breads, muffins, and cookies before turning to savory mains. She goes far beyond the typical pork tenderloin and adds a dash (or a dollop) of rhubarb to lamb stew, curries, lentil dishes, and even barbecued ribs. Subsequent chapters cover drinks (including lemonade and lassi), jams and other preserves, and a wide variety of sauces (even ketchup). Furstenau's instructions are clear and concise, with short headnotes offering a hint about a recipe's origin or her favorite variation.
Lively, bold, and bursting with unexpected flavor notes, Furstenau's rhubarb compendium will have even novice cooks scooping up armfuls of pink stalks at the farmers market. Like the plant itself, The Pocket Rhubarb Cookbook will add springtime zest and freshness to any table. --Katie Noah Gibson, blogger at Cakes, Tea and Dreams